The training programmes were subsequently opened up to adults and the training centre now has five trainers and a total of 30 apprenticeships. The Cartier Watchmaking Institute (l’Institut Horlogerie Cartier) was founded in 1993, inititally to offer apprenticeships to two school leavers per year. These references include six different tourbillon calibres (the 9451 Astrotourbillon, the 94 flying tourbillons, the 94 skeleton tourbillons and the 9458 inversed tourbillon) as well as a perpetual calendar calibre 9422, a chronograph calibre 9907 and various other complications, such as the calibre 9908 annual calendar movement, the calibre 9909 time zone movement and the highly complicated 90800 astrorégulateur and 9436 grande complication pocket watch movements.
There are a number of other Cartier calibre references, which bear testament to the prolific development rate of the designers and constructors working at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The calibre 1904 MC features a small seconds indication and a sectorial date at 3 o’clock operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). To improve the winding efficiency of the calibre 1904 MC, Cartier has fitted ceramic ball bearings at the centre of the rotor to ensure excellent shock resistance and durability and has replaced the traditional reversers in self-winding mechanisms with an innovative pawl system that results in a faster winding rate.
This Cartier calibre is characterised by its twin mainspring barrels, which help to ensure a substantial power reserve of around 48 hours, as well as Cartier’s signature C-shaped index regulator that is used to fine tune the length of the balance spring in order to ensure optimal precision. It was created for his friend, the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, allowing him to read the time while still keeping his hands on the controls of the aeroplane. The Cartier calibre (movement) in question in this collection is the 1904 MC, which pays tribute to the year 1904, when Louis Cartier developed the first-ever wristwatch. A Cartier calibre could refer either to one of the brand’s numerous in-house watch movements or the collection that takes the name “Calibre de Cartier”.
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